The BRB Guide to Budapest

Art and Money


The First Real Live One

"The only good artists are dead artists." The old maxim of Budapest art dealers seemed to have lost some of its ironic truth about a year ago when the first glitzy New York-style gallery opened in central Budapest between the river and Váci utca, the fashionable shopping street. The openings at this new gallery are equally popular with the over-age end of Hungarian yuppies and the egghead society -  the little of it that remains from the good old days.

The gallery represents painters who tend to specialize in huge, colorful sensuous canvases. The couple who established the gallery must know all too well that their investment is unlikely to make it out of the red in the next hundred years.

The gallery is actually run by one of the owners, an exceptionally elegant lady in her mid (late?) thirties -  the gallery bears her family name, an Irish name. Her husband and co-owner, a successful real estate dealer, is always present at the evening openings (perhaps they start late so that he can be there). He flaunts an unorthodox sartorial style. Sometimes he manages to look like a cross between a futures broker and a rock opera set designer.

With the opening of this gallery, contemporary Hungarian art inevitably began its long march towards being chic.

Dovin Gallery V. Galamb utca 6. Open 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Sat. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

And the Second

About the same time that Design Center Budapest (a small publicly-owned agency that recommended designers and services to businesses, held exhibitions, and operated a wonderful, small library) had to close down, a new, three-tiered shop opened in a somewhat improbable place: in Theresa Town (Terézváros), an impoverished area only 300 meters east of the heart of the city.

The shop and gallery offered a bit of everything -  from copies of Mackintosh and Rietveld through classic Breuer to recent Philippe Starck chairs and tables. Above is a spacious design studio, said to be frequently visited by the Russian nouveau riche for consultations about furnishing both their homes and new office buildings.

Early this year the owners opened their second gallery at a more predictable address, the southern end of Váci utca (just now being converted into a pedestrian zone). The new premises are in the basement of the New City Hall, which is a superb hundred-year- old Beaux Arts palace. This latest venture was calculatedly designed as a tool for owner Miklós Vincze's vision: to match the latest international design with recent Hungarian art -  and lure his clients who buy modern furniture into buying some paintings, just to go with the furniture.

The space is highly original, capitalizing on the brick vaults and the random piping -  things that are impossible to hide anyway. The gallery's name is coined from the names of its two owners:

VAM - Vincze Anna and Miklós.
VAM Design 1. VI. Király utca 20. VAM Design 2: V. Váci utca 64.

Painters with Paper

The mild totalitarian dictatorship of the 70s and the 80s had its favored painters and sculptors, of course, but as a whole the régime treated artists as a privileged class apart.

The art schools (there were two of them) produced thousands of artists over the years who were all promised "careers," not to mention the prospect of living exclusively on art. All art school graduates were automatically co-opted by the "Fine Arts Fund of the People's Republic of Hungary," to which they had to pay a certain percentage of their earnings and from which they were promised pensions. The Fund was a powerful organization that ran all kinds of business ventures, capitalizing on its monopoly in publishing postcards, of all things.

The Fund also had a network of hideous, but extremely well-sited commercial galleries all over the country. These galleries had a crucial part in ruining the taste of at least two generations by popularizing "modern art," most of it naff, backward, sentimental pseudo-modernism, both figurative and abstract.

The State as Santa Claus

The most improbable feature of the Fine Arts Fund was that it guaranteed to buy at least one picture a week from its members -  an attempt to create full employment in the arts. The idea was that these pictures should be put on sale. But in the early 80s, when the Fund stopped buying, it turned out that there were tens of thousands of unsold pictures.

Just as for writers, the advent of liberty favored the very good and the very bad artists. The great mass in the middle between the two extremities, the vast majority, is now composed of artists who are frustrated, impoversihed, and forced to question their careers.

One of the remaining "Képcsarnok" (Fine Art Fund) Galleries:
VI, Teréz körút 11.

"Young Turks"

From the early 80s on, a new generation emerged -  a much more market-oriented generation that had seen the modern museums of Europe (some of them even of America) and could speak foreign languages, if not brilliantly. A little later they capitalized on that somewhat artificial, politically-oriented interest in Hungarian art -  that wonderful half decade in the latter part of the 80s.

But thousands were forced to recognize that they were becoming more and more weekend artists. They are art teachers, civil servants, paste-up artists at illustrated papers, graphic designers in the first place, artists in the second.

The Fine Arts Fund has meanwhile lost its monopolies, along with most of its marketable assets. Its obligation to pay pensions has remained, but without sufficient sources of income. It was turned into a quasi-foundation, a purse, into which the state puts money every year. This "purse" was fatefully mismanaged by its 21-member Board, of which 19 were artists (writers and musicians among them, since the new Foundation now included the former Literary Fund and Music Fund as well). Finally Santa Claus intervened, but not in time, and not as generously as his earlier, totalitarian counterpart.

Public Foundation for Creative Artists: VI. Báthori utca 10.

A Formerly Really Favored Artist

Few contemporary Hungarian artists have lived long enough to see a museum devoted exclusively to their work. Imre Varga, the maverick septuagenarian sculptor, is one of the few. It's taken long enough for him to reach that status as an artist, so much liked by the general public and so much sneered at by quite a few fellow artists.

For a decade or so, in the fifties and early sixties, Varga was treated like a pariah. He came from a landowning family, and as a young man he had even been a fighter pilot in the Hungarian air force.

Later on, during the first "thaw," he let himself be lured into the role of "conspicuously-non-party-member-favored artist," trusting to fate and good luck that he could influence things for the better on the way. In the end, he was even "elected" as an MP in that parody of a Parliament which had four sessions a year, each a maximum of three days, one every season.

There was a year when he was said to have used about 75 per cent of the capacity of the one and only bronze statue foundry in Hungary. Gradually he fitted into the mould of the proverbial great Hungarian sculptor, who is known all over Europe, who blends tradition and modernity, and is often interviewed on TV. He has no less than 300 works accomplished and erected, a rare feat. His undoubted chef d'oeuvre is his Wallenberg monument, set in a remote part of Buda. In 1986, it needed considerable bravery to commemorate the Swedish diplomat, who saved tens of thousands of Jews during the war and finally vanished in the Gulag.

With the advent of democracy, Mr Varga again became a sort of a pariah: he was accused of being a kind of collaborator. He works mainly for Germany now, and recently a Bartók statue of his was erected in Brussels.

He spends quite a lot of time in his museum, a wise old man still of imposing presence, over six feet tall, with ultra-short silver hair, like a retired US Air Force four-star general.

You can easily run into him.

Speaks German and French well, but not English, as far as I know.

The Imre Varga Collection:
III. Laktanya utca 7.

Artistwatching, Budapest

Artists live all over the country. If you want to be sure of spotting them, you can go to at least two places in Budapest, to purpose-built colonies. The bigger of the two is in outer Joseph Town (Józsefváros), a hundred meters from the Népstadion underground station (People's Stadium). The colony was built before WWI and consists of about three dozen homes of varying sizes, all with a studio -  some very big. In the center there is a garden for communal use. There is one fence around the colony with an iron gate that is never locked. The architectural style is loosely called National Romanticism. It involves a lot of woodwork, complicated latticed roofs, and undressed stone on the outside, especially near the ground.

It is a lovely place, even after some major alterations, not always carried out with the necessary expertize, so to speak. The right to live here was theoretically given to artists, not to their widows or offspring. But few of them ever left. Unfinished statues are scattered all around the place, even some finished totalitarian works of "art" by the one time notorious dean of the Academy of Fine Arts. Residents include a famous Hungarian writer- turned film director, his sculptor wife, and a brilliant illustrator with an interest in Oriental art. It is definitely worth the walk.

The other colony is a fine Art Nouveau block of flats with studios a hundred meters from the elegant Gellért Hotel, somewhat up the hill. It was built in 1903. Typical of the tenants here is the couple, both painters, who has a successful career in graphic design. They work a lot, as participants in the rat race. So they leave early and get back home late. The husband gets away for three weeks once or twice a year to a summer artists' colony in Kecskemét, about a hundred kilometers south of Budapest. During that time he does not want to hear about business. Even switches off his cell phone. Or at least its ringer.

Százados út Artists' Colony:
VIII. Százados út 3-13.

Block of Flats with Studios:
XI. Kelenhegyi út 12-14.

Artists' Colony, 
Northwest Hungary

Lake Balaton, the "Hungarian Sea," is a naff place on the whole. But not the relatively untouched villages north of it, west of the town of Veszprém, southeast of Tapolca -  the area is called the Káli Basin. The fashion for buying summer homes and studios started some fifteen years ago when there were more and more abandoned houses in these villages. The craze spread from a village called Kapolcs, where composer Márta István and friends organize the "Valley of Arts" festival every year with hundreds of smaller events (mid-June/mid-July). Now several dozen better-known painters have studios there, and there are also many writers and actors. Traditionalist painter/semi-professional Hussar Gyõzõ Somogyi moved permanently to a village called Salföld and gathered quite a herd of different animals. His house is a frequent destination of pilgrimage for egghead students with glowing eyes, dreaming of the "unspoilt life."

The last outpost is a resort called Szigliget, where there is a Writers' "Creativity Center," a big, yellow, dilapidated complex in a big estate that once belonged to the Esterházy's.

A descendant, cult figure/writer Péter Esterházy, traditionally spends three weeks there (with some of his four kids) in the beginning of August, always with the same bunch of friends -  writers, musicians and artists.

It is no small privilege to be invited there, even if only to come by.

Szigligeti Alkotóház -  Szigliget Creativity Center, Veszprém County.

Contemporary Galleries, 
Probably the Twelve Best:

Artpool
VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 10. I. 1.
Tel: 121-0883. e-mail: artpool@artpool.hu

Bartók 32
XI. Bartók Béla út 32. Tel: 186-9038

Bolt Galéria
VIII. Leonardo da Vinci utca 40.

Dovin
V. Galamb utca 6. Tel: 118-3673

Erdész Galéria
Szentendre, Bercsényi utca 4.
Tel: 0626 317-925

Galéria 56
V. Falk Miksa utca 7. Tel: 269-2529

Körmendi Galéria
II. Nagybányai út 25. Tel: 176-2110

Hans Knoll
VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 10. Tel: 121-1556

Pandora Galéria
VIII. Népszínház utca 42. Tel: 113-4927

Stúdió 1900
XIII. Balzac utca 30. Tel: 129-5553

Várfok 14
I. Várfok utca 14. Tel: 115-2165

VAM Design 2
V. Váci utca 64. Tel: 118-1594

András Török

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